How to Make Baskets with Natural Basket Weaving Materials
Matt Tommey harvesting natural basket weaving materials.
I started making baskets when I was in college at the University of Georgia back in the early 1990’s. While working at the bookstore on campus I found a book on Willow Basketry, took it home and began to experiment with the materials outside my apartment building – kudzu. I had never seen or heard of a kudzu basket at that time. Before long, the baskets started actually looking like something and I sold a few to friends. My journey had begun. I later began dating my now wife, Tanya while in school at UGA and she was the first girl that would ever go pick kudzu with me. I guess it was meant to be! We’ve been married a lot of years now – now she does deposits.
About a year later I had taken a position as a youth pastor at a local church in Athens and was helping out at a senior adult luncheon our church was hosting. Of all people, the program that day was a lady Regina Hines who was the foremost authority on kudzu basket weaving in the country. I was blown away that someone actually did what I was doing with kudzu. It was during her 45-minute program that I saw her split kudzu for the first time. Afterwards we met and the rest is history. We’ve stayed in touch now for almost 20 years. While our styles are very different, I credit Miss Regina with having a major influence on my early work. Most recently, I have been influenced by the work of Michael Davis, Dorothy Gill Barnes, Ane Lyngsgaard, Lissa Hunter, Jennifer Heller Zurick, Joe Hogan, Polly Adams Sutton, and the work of early Japanese Ikebana basket makers as I continue to develop my own unique creative voice.
Wanting to Learn How to Make a Basket?
About a year later I had taken a position as a youth pastor at a local church in Athens and was helping out at a senior adult luncheon our church was hosting. Of all people, the program that day was a lady Regina Hines who was the foremost authority on kudzu basket weaving in the country. I was blown away that someone actually did what I was doing with kudzu. It was during her 45-minute program that I saw her split kudzu for the first time. Afterwards we met and the rest is history. We’ve stayed in touch now for almost 20 years. While our styles are very different, I credit Miss Regina with having a major influence on my early work. Most recently, I have been influenced by the work of Michael Davis, Dorothy Gill Barnes, Ane Lyngsgaard, Lissa Hunter, Jennifer Heller Zurick, Joe Hogan, Polly Adams Sutton, and the work of early Japanese Ikebana basket makers as I continue to develop my own unique creative voice.
Wanting to Learn How to Make a Basket?
- Check out my page, How to Weave a Basket for some detailed instructions on how to get started weaving your first basket.
- Consider my popular online basket weaving classes, Twining with Soft Natural Materials, Bark Basketry Basics, and Rib Basketry Basics.
- Find out about the 5 Best Basket Weaving Techniques using Natural Materials.
Common Natural Basket Weaving Materials
Some of the most common natural basket weaving materials that can be found include kudzu vine, grapevine, honeysuckle vine and bittersweet vine. In addition, I love to use mimosa bark and poplar bark because they are plentiful in the area that I live and I've learned to adapt them to my basket weaving techniques.
Kudzu Vine - Natural Basket Weaving Materials
Mimosa Bark - Natural Basket Weaving Materials
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Wild Grapevine - Natural Basket Weaving Materials
Tulip Poplar Bark - Natural Basket Weaving Materials
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Japanese Honeysuckle Vine - Natural Basket Weaving Materials
Bittersweet Vines - Natural Basket Weaving Materials
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Traditional Baskets, Non-traditional Natural Basket Weaving Materials
Since I started making baskets, I’ve always been attracted to the traditional Appalachian forms like the Egg Basket, Hen Basket, Oriole and Potato Baskets. The problem was that most of these baskets were made from very predictable, uniform material – white oak or black ask splints. Since I’ve always used primarily kudzu and other vines like honeysuckle, grape, bittersweet and wisteria vines for my work, I had to develop my own process of preparation and weaving in order to get my nontraditional materials to respond in traditional baskets.
Harvesting Natural Basket Weaving Materials
The best time to harvest the natural materials I’m describing here is in the winter. I generally say after the leaves fall until the leaves are out in the Spring is when I harvest. You can harvest materials all year around, but the winter is best for a number of reasons:
• No critters are out and about
• The sap is way down which means the bark on your vines will stay in tact as you’re pulling it. It also helps the vines dry and shrink quicker.
• Vines ‘release’ easier when you pull them in the winter because all the small tendrils and leaves are dead.
• Most natural materials are easier to get to in the winter as you can see them easily in the trees, on the ground, etc.
Generally the only material I harvest in the spring and summer is tree bark (poplar, pine, birch and cedar) for making bark baskets and stakes for twined baskets. When I harvest vines or any materials, I clean and coil them in the woods. It saves a lot of time and hassle when I get back to the studio.
Kudzu
When I first started out, I did what everyone else said to do with kudzu:
That didn’t work for the style, tightness of weave and quality I wanted to produce. Through a lot of experimentation and trial and error, I came up with my own technique. Although larger pieces of kudzu can be used for frame work (knarled handles, frames, ribs, etc) I find smaller pieces of kudzu are best suited as weaver material. Here’s the process I use to prepare kudzu weavers:
Harvesting Kudzu for Baskets:
Harvest the runners that grow along the ground (only ones that have mature bark – the grayish brown color – not the green, fuzzy vines). The large pith and flexible fiber in the runners flatten out nicely and are very uniform – growing 40-50 ft sometimes. You can still harvest stuff that grows in the trees, but I try to stay with vines that are no larger than about a 1⁄2”. The large kudzu is very, very fibrous, has little pith and is very ‘hairy’ when split.
Click here to read my other blog articles on:
• No critters are out and about
• The sap is way down which means the bark on your vines will stay in tact as you’re pulling it. It also helps the vines dry and shrink quicker.
• Vines ‘release’ easier when you pull them in the winter because all the small tendrils and leaves are dead.
• Most natural materials are easier to get to in the winter as you can see them easily in the trees, on the ground, etc.
Generally the only material I harvest in the spring and summer is tree bark (poplar, pine, birch and cedar) for making bark baskets and stakes for twined baskets. When I harvest vines or any materials, I clean and coil them in the woods. It saves a lot of time and hassle when I get back to the studio.
Kudzu
When I first started out, I did what everyone else said to do with kudzu:
- Harvest the vines that grow up the trees
- Let the kudzu dry for up to a week in a cool, dry place
- Weave it while it’s still green
- Be ok with the ‘organic’ look and feel of your warped basket upon drying.
That didn’t work for the style, tightness of weave and quality I wanted to produce. Through a lot of experimentation and trial and error, I came up with my own technique. Although larger pieces of kudzu can be used for frame work (knarled handles, frames, ribs, etc) I find smaller pieces of kudzu are best suited as weaver material. Here’s the process I use to prepare kudzu weavers:
Harvesting Kudzu for Baskets:
Harvest the runners that grow along the ground (only ones that have mature bark – the grayish brown color – not the green, fuzzy vines). The large pith and flexible fiber in the runners flatten out nicely and are very uniform – growing 40-50 ft sometimes. You can still harvest stuff that grows in the trees, but I try to stay with vines that are no larger than about a 1⁄2”. The large kudzu is very, very fibrous, has little pith and is very ‘hairy’ when split.
- Split & Coil: Immediately split and coil the kudzu within a day or two, allowing it to dry completely in a cool, dry place. Separate by size. When you split a piece coil it together. That way when you’re ready to use it, you’ll have matching pieces for your basket. NOTE: the bark will come off of kudzu easily, leaving a beautiful white/green vine underneath. I use this and the ‘bark-on’ look in almost all my work. Be sure to keep the long pieces of bark, as they make incredible cordage and lace for projects like potato and folded bark baskets.
- Soak: Once you’re ready to weave fill your sink or a plastic tub with warm/hot water. NOT BOILING – just however hot your sink water gets. Put the vines in with a brick or other weight on top of them and let them soak until they will wrap around your finger without breaking. This should be about 5-10 minutes
- Flatten: Lastly, before I weave take the prepared kudzu and flatten it by pulling it (bark side down) over the bull-nosed edge of my kitchen counter. You need to practice this in order to put just the right amount of tension on the vine without breaking or splitting the vine further. Once you’re done, you’ve got beautiful, flat, moist kudzu to work with. NOTE: only soak enough kudzu to weave in one sitting.
Click here to read my other blog articles on:
Kudzu - natural basket weaving materials
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Kudzu Leaf for identification of natural basket weaving materials
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Kudzu vines, a common natural basket weaving material, covering old vehicles
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Other Vines, Branches & Bark
I tend to lump all the additional vines I use into an ‘Other’ category, because I find their attributes and preparation to be very similar. Most other vines that I use I my work include:
I tend to lump all the additional vines I use into an ‘Other’ category, because I find their attributes and preparation to be very similar. Most other vines that I use I my work include:
- Honeysuckle (Both large pieces and small runners. The bark is great for cordage. The larger vines are great for handles and are usually very funky shapes. Be careful – honeysuckle is very, very brittle – even when it’s green.) Click here to read my blog on How to Weave a Basket with Honeysuckle Vines.
- Wisteria (Mostly small runners. When you boil wisteria, the bark will want to come off… you can weave with it on, but just be careful. However, if it does come off the undervine is a beautiful white/cream color and the bark is great for cordage.) Click here to read my blog on How to Weave a Basket with Wisteria.
- Grapevine (Both large vines and the small runners – especially the decorative tendrils. I usually take the bark off revealing the purple or green underbark. It’s much cleaner looking unless you’re going for a more natural decorative effect.)
- Bittersweet (Mostly large vines but some of the small runners are nice as well. It can be very brittle and if you bend it too sharply even when green the bark will crack.)
- Forsythia & Eleagnus (The long 1 year shoots that sometimes grow on the bush up to 6’-8’ in length).
- Willow (You can harvest wild osier willows by creeks, rivers or other boggy areas during the winter. The long shoots and shorter branches are great for weaving. You can let them dry or use them 'green'. A variety of beautiful and functional cultivated willow is available on the market as well that is much less branchy - growing 5-8' in one year with very few to no branches. The color variety is incredible.
For more information on using willow in your work, check out my friends Katherine and Steve at Dunbar Gardens in Washington State USA. They also sell cuttings that you can root and plant for your own basketry garden. - Poplar Bark (I use the bark from saplings or poplar trees who's bark is still smooth. Usually I prefer to work with trees whose trunk is between 2" and 8" wide and no branches from the base to upwards of 6'-8' up. All bark must be harvested in the spring and summer months when the sap is up. To harvest the bark, fell the tree and then take a razor blade and cut all the way through the bark to the wood. Then cut a circle around the tree at the top and bottom of your cut line. That will allow you to work a large knife under the bark and begin gently but firmly separating the bark from the tree. For details on this process, check out this series of 3 videos on YouTube from Leatherwood Crafts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-kn7cRqrls. Also check out these great instructions from Ken Peek on"How to make a Folded Bark Basket". You can also use a leather strap cutter and cut your bark in strips for weaving in traditional twill or plaiting work. Once you harvest the bark, use it immediately OR roll it up inside out and tie with a string until you're ready to use it. You can soak or boil to prepare it for weaving. This same process can be used for a variety of sapling bark. However, once you take the bark off a tree, the tree will die. Be sure to harvest sustainably and use the wood for firewood, mulch or some other purpose. Here's a recent video I did on how to harvest the inner bark of poplar trees.
For all of these ‘other’ natural materials for basket weaving, I prepare them the same way – heat and water. Vines are prepared by coiling them tightly and placing them in boiling water for a minimum of 10 minutes. You want them to be pliable enough to bend 90 degrees or more without breaking. I usually try to wrap a piece around my hand as a test. Sometimes you can get away with just soaking vines for a long time to get them pliable. However, the larger concern is bugs. Many vines, especially wild grapevine has a tendency to have teeny little mites in them. If you don’t boil the vines and kill the mites you’ll make a beautiful basket and then notice in about a week that there are sawdust pyramids all around the basket from where your little friends are boring holes. Not a pretty site. I’ve even boiled baskets that were already made in an effort to kill those little boogers. It works.
For branches like forsythia, eleagnus, laurel or rhododendron I created a steamer tube out of PVC pipe. I heat a large metal container of water over a gas flame (using my turkey fryer base) and from the container I have a piece of HVAC conduit connected (airtight) to a PVC pipe. Once the water boils, it creates steam that goes into the pipe, steaming the material. After about 10-15 minutes of steaming, I am able to easily bend rhododendron that ’s 1” thick.
For branches like forsythia, eleagnus, laurel or rhododendron I created a steamer tube out of PVC pipe. I heat a large metal container of water over a gas flame (using my turkey fryer base) and from the container I have a piece of HVAC conduit connected (airtight) to a PVC pipe. Once the water boils, it creates steam that goes into the pipe, steaming the material. After about 10-15 minutes of steaming, I am able to easily bend rhododendron that ’s 1” thick.
Common Questions about Basket Weaving
What are the 4 techniques of basket weaving?
Basket weaving encompasses a range of techniques, each suited for different materials and purposes. Many people think there are only 4 main techniques, but I believe there are actually six:
- Plaiting: Utilizes flat, wide materials like palm or yucca leaves. The weaving is done horizontally, vertically, or diagonally, often creating a checkerboard pattern. This technique is ideal for creating flat, square, or rectangular baskets.
- Twining: Involves weaving two or more weavers around spokes. This technique, suitable for round baskets, requires flexible materials like cedar bark, reeds, or roots. Twining can produce intricate patterns and variations by adjusting the tightness of the rows.
- Wicker: Known for its complexity, wicker weaving starts with spokes and involves weaving the material in an over-under pattern without crossing the weavers. Willow is commonly used, providing sturdiness and beauty to the finished basket.
- Coiling: Different from traditional weaving, coiling involves wrapping a core material and sewing the coils together, usually resulting in round baskets. Materials like sweetgrass, pine needles, and willow are commonly used.
- Random: An ancient technique popularized in Japanese ikebana baskets that mimic the natural forms of nests. This technique is mostly used in art baskets rather than functional baskets.
What is the process of weaving baskets?
The basket weaving process involves selecting appropriate materials, preparing them (e.g., soaking, mellowing, etc), and then employing a specific weaving technique to create the basket’s form like twining, plaiting, random, etc. The process varies in complexity based on the chosen technique and the basket's design. For makers like myself who enjoy basket weaving with natural materials, preparing the materials is just as much fun as weaving a basket.
In rib basketry, you typically create a frame first and then weave on that frame which creates the shape. In other basketry forms like twining, you create the shape as you weave. Regardless of your basket weaving techniques, you must always give attention to shaping and form along the way.
In rib basketry, you typically create a frame first and then weave on that frame which creates the shape. In other basketry forms like twining, you create the shape as you weave. Regardless of your basket weaving techniques, you must always give attention to shaping and form along the way.
Is basket weaving difficult?
Basket weaving can initially be challenging, but like any craft, it becomes easier with practice and the right teacher. Starting with simpler techniques like twining and progressing to more complex ones like bark work or rib basketry is advisable. Basket weaving classes from experienced teachers can also be helpful for beginners. Check out my online basket weaving classes.
How do you start basket weaving?
To start basket weaving, one should first learn the basic techniques and understand the properties of different materials. Beginners are advised to begin with simple projects using readily available materials and straightforward patterns. Learning from an experienced teacher is a great way to begin, primarily through in-person or online basket weaving classes. When I started making over 30 years ago, I just saw some vines in my local forest that inspired me, and I started playing around. Later I found a book and learned some basket weaving techniques. Over time, my own unique style developed. However you learn to start making baskets, make sure you're having fun!
What is the simplest basket weaving technique?
Coiling is often considered the simplest technique, suitable for beginners. It involves a straightforward process of spiraling and stitching, making it accessible for those new to the craft. However, after teaching basket weaving classes for over 30 years now, I've found the simplest basket weaving techniques are the ones that make sense to you. Like all art forms, makers will be drawn to certain materials and techniques. Some prefer twining or coiling because of the soft nature. Some like random weaving because it has no boundaries. Others prefer rib basketry because of the structure inherent in the process. The important thing is that you find a technique that speaks to you and just go for it!
Which weaving technique is the easiest?
Plaiting might be regarded as the easiest technique, particularly for beginners. Its basic over-and-under pattern makes it straightforward and less daunting to learn. However, it goes back to what resonates with you and your hands as a maker. Some basket weaving techniques are easy for some and the same techniques drive others crazy.
What techniques did native americans use to weave baskets?
Native American basketry is diverse and includes techniques like coiling, twining, and plaiting. The materials used are often reflective of the local environment, varying widely across different tribes and regions. Many tribes who found themselves in areas where grasses were plentiful - like the plains and southwest - employed techqniues like coilling. Whereas tribes who found themselves in areas where bark was available, like the northwest, used things like cedar and roots for plaiting and twining. Southeastern tribes commonly used white oak and rivercane for plaiting work where as northeastern tribes used materials common to their area like black ash. More can be found about native American basket weaving traditions at Wikipedia's basket weaving page.
What are the two most common methods of basket weaving?
In functional baskets, the two most common methods are Plaiting and Wicker. Plaiting is simple and easy, giving a traditional and functional aesthetic that is popular among many makers. Wicker is favored for its strength and aesthetic appeal especially with furniture and functional items.
However, when it comes to sculptural basketry, I would say, hands down, the most popular basket weaving method is Twining because it is versatile and accommodates a variety of materials and forms. That's been my go-to weaving technique for many years. Although I started with rib basketry, I've found twining gives me the most ability for flexibility and artistic expression in basket weaving.
However, when it comes to sculptural basketry, I would say, hands down, the most popular basket weaving method is Twining because it is versatile and accommodates a variety of materials and forms. That's been my go-to weaving technique for many years. Although I started with rib basketry, I've found twining gives me the most ability for flexibility and artistic expression in basket weaving.
What are the best branches for basket weaving?
Willow branches are by far the most popular branches for basket weaving. Their long fiber, beautiful bark, and ease of propagation around the world make them an excellent choice, especially for making functional baskets. However, vines are also very popular as well, including rattan (which is what most commercial basket weaving materials are made from) and wild harvested vines like kudzu, grapevine, honeysuckle, wisteria, bittersweet, virginia creeper and others. For makers like me who enjoy harvesting, it's best to find out what's growing and what will grow best in your area and tailor your making around those locally available materials.
How can I be comfortable when basket weaving?
The ergonomics of basket weaving plays a crucial role in ensuring a safe, comfortable, and enjoyable experience for beginners. Ergonomics, the study of people's efficiency in their working environment, is particularly relevant to crafts like basket weaving that involve repetitive motions and prolonged periods of sitting.
Firstly, choosing a comfortable and supportive seating arrangement is essential. A chair with good back support is ideal, allowing the weaver to maintain a proper posture while working. The feet should rest flat on the ground or on a footrest, helping to align the spine and reduce lower back strain. Adjusting the height of the chair to ensure that the work surface is at elbow height can further help in maintaining a neutral position for the arms and wrists, reducing the risk of strain.
The work surface itself should be at a comfortable height, ideally allowing the arms to be at a relaxed angle while weaving. An adjustable table can be a great investment, catering to different projects and their specific needs. The surface should be smooth to prevent any snagging of materials and to facilitate easy movement of the basket and tools.
Good lighting is another critical aspect. Adequate, preferably natural light, is necessary to reduce eye strain. If natural light isn't sufficient, a bright desk lamp that can be adjusted to illuminate the work area without causing glare is beneficial.
Incorporating regular breaks into the weaving process is essential to prevent fatigue. During these breaks, stretching and moving around will help alleviate any potential muscle stiffness and improve circulation. This practice is especially important for beginners who might not be accustomed to the repetitive motions of weaving.
Using tools and materials that are comfortable to handle can also enhance the weaving experience. Beginners should select materials that are not too stiff or difficult to manipulate, as this can cause hand and wrist strain. Over time, as skill and hand strength develop, more challenging materials can be introduced.
Lastly, staying hydrated and taking care of overall well-being, such as having a balanced diet and enough rest, can significantly impact the overall crafting experience. A comfortable, well-arranged workspace, combined with mindful practices, can make basket weaving a truly enjoyable and fulfilling hobby.
This advice, drawn from ergonomic principles and crafting experience, ensures that beginners can engage in basket weaving in a way that is both enjoyable and mindful of their physical well-being.
Firstly, choosing a comfortable and supportive seating arrangement is essential. A chair with good back support is ideal, allowing the weaver to maintain a proper posture while working. The feet should rest flat on the ground or on a footrest, helping to align the spine and reduce lower back strain. Adjusting the height of the chair to ensure that the work surface is at elbow height can further help in maintaining a neutral position for the arms and wrists, reducing the risk of strain.
The work surface itself should be at a comfortable height, ideally allowing the arms to be at a relaxed angle while weaving. An adjustable table can be a great investment, catering to different projects and their specific needs. The surface should be smooth to prevent any snagging of materials and to facilitate easy movement of the basket and tools.
Good lighting is another critical aspect. Adequate, preferably natural light, is necessary to reduce eye strain. If natural light isn't sufficient, a bright desk lamp that can be adjusted to illuminate the work area without causing glare is beneficial.
Incorporating regular breaks into the weaving process is essential to prevent fatigue. During these breaks, stretching and moving around will help alleviate any potential muscle stiffness and improve circulation. This practice is especially important for beginners who might not be accustomed to the repetitive motions of weaving.
Using tools and materials that are comfortable to handle can also enhance the weaving experience. Beginners should select materials that are not too stiff or difficult to manipulate, as this can cause hand and wrist strain. Over time, as skill and hand strength develop, more challenging materials can be introduced.
Lastly, staying hydrated and taking care of overall well-being, such as having a balanced diet and enough rest, can significantly impact the overall crafting experience. A comfortable, well-arranged workspace, combined with mindful practices, can make basket weaving a truly enjoyable and fulfilling hobby.
This advice, drawn from ergonomic principles and crafting experience, ensures that beginners can engage in basket weaving in a way that is both enjoyable and mindful of their physical well-being.
Is basket weaving profitable?
For most makers, basket weaving is a hobby they pursue in their free time. That's how I started. However, for many makers, like myself, who love to make and teach, basket weaving can absolutely be profitable when you approach it as a business. I've made my living since 2009 primarily from making baskets, but I started making in 1993. For many years, I was a hobbyist and just some guys play golf or go fishing, I made baskets. As my passion and skill grew, along with my confidence in sharing my work with others, I was able to turn my art hobby into a profitable art business through making art, teaching basket weaving classes and creating commissioned art works for luxury homes in the mountains of western North Carolina. Now, I mentor artists to do the same through my Created to Thrive Artist Mentorship Program.
Wondering where to learn basket weaving?
Here's where I would recommend you learn basket weaving:
- Online Basket Weaving Classes from Matt Tommey
- The John C Campbell Folk School
- Arrowmont School
- My Favorite Basketry Book: Baskets from Nature's Bounty